Large Australian Swells Testing Competitive Limits
On a recent free surf in Australia, six-time world champ Stephanie Gilmore wiped out with bone-breaking intensity. “I fractured my fibula… I just ejected out of the lip, tried to pin drop feet-first and went straight-legged into the sand,” said Gilmore in an interview during the 2015 Drug Aware Margaret River Pro. It not only kept her from competing in the contest, it also highlights the range of injuries that can be sustained while surfing.
We see a lot of strains, sprains, and tears in our patients at Action Physical Therapy— especially the ones that surf—but fractures are less common. Which is actually a little surprising, considering a cubic meter of water (about the size of your oven) weighs a ton. The eight- to twelve-foot waves breaking at the 2015 Margaret River Pro were unleashing hundreds of tons of water at the competitors riding them. The athleticism and flexibility of even the most prepared, intensely trained surfers are tested when they met the wrong side of those breaking waves. (Ninth best surfer in the world, Jordy Smith, had to pull out of the competition because of injuries sustained to his foot and knee during a between-round surf at spot near Margaret River.)
And, while it may sound more serious, a fracture can be more preferable to something like a ligament tear. A hairline fracture like the one Stephanie Gilmore sustained, often does not require surgery, but will need rest and physical therapy to ensure it heals correctly and completely.
If you’re experiencing pain while surfing, or any other activity for that matter, it could be an undiagnosed, yet easily treatable issue. We encourage you to talk to your doctor, or call us for a consult. We can create a specialized PT program for surfing injuries, and the many other conditions that go with living an active life.
We wish Stephanie Gilmore the best in her recovery, and look forward to watching her rip in the upcoming Oi Rio Women’s Pro in Brazil. And congrats to John John Florence on his runner up win at the Margie’s Men’s Pro! He walked away with second place, but he’s a first-rate competitor and ambassador for Hawaii. #GoJohnJohnGo!